Worldwide Photo-etch and Resin Kit Specialists

Tips and Tricks



You will need:

3 small plastic "G" clamps   .

A flat-bottomed pan or dish

Rubber gloves

Boiling Water

A hard flat surface such as a kitchen countertop that you can clamp the hull to


Place the hull into the pan or dish, base down

Pour boiling water over it until it is completely immersed.

Leave it in the water for maybe 10 minutes to make sure that the heat has fully dispersed. Press the hull back down to level with your fingers.. Be careful as you handle the hull... it WILL be quite flexible and be careful not to bend any thin parts or damage any deck fittings!

When it has flattened out, remove from the water, place on the countertop edge, and GENTLY clamp it down. Put one clamp midships, Now gently clamp the back end of the hull in place, and the forward superstructure block at the front end.

Leave for a full 24 hours.

You may have to sand the hull bottom, unless you are placing this in a seascape. If you find it warps again, repeat the above. We advise that ALL waterline hulls are screwed down to a suitable base to prevent any future movement.



Squadron White putty in joints: Stuff it in, wipe off with nail polish remover. No sanding needed and no lost details.

Fill small seams with gap-filling super glue. Let it set up briefly, then gently wipe the surface with a soft cloth soaked with debonder. No sanding needed and no lost details.

From Chris Hall—For very small seams, use Tippex, preferably in the pen-type applicator. Wipe with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol. Again, no need for sanding. Used on the port forward wing root of this Airfix Ford Trimotor, to avoid damaging the corrugated plastic:



Using the corner tip of a piece of masking tape (Like Tamiya or 3M Blue medium tack), you can just barely touch the photo-etch piece with the tape, apply super glue to the side that you will adhere to the surface, then attach it to the plastic or resin and let the super glue set up for a few seconds (5-10). By then the super glue has dried enough and the tape comes right off. No more trying to do this with a tweezers or fingers. It even allows me to place the part in the right place the first time.



Found a mat (in Walmart) of green rubbery material in the produce department (also try the kitchen utinsels area of the stores). It holds the part/model you are working on it, without slippage (and hands-free). Size is 12" X 12", just the right size for the workbench top.

Need a palette for paint, super glue, etc.? Cheap playing cards that are made of 10 thou (ish) styrene can be found at many stores and work well. $1 for a whole deck.



Ship modelers find some very useful and interesting tips & tricks at the Fine Waterline website:

Tom Teliczan compiles a 115-page document with various hints, tips and answers to some commonly asked questions from HyperScale's popular Plane Talking discussion group:

And speaking of Hyperscale, here’s a link to their very useful online reference library:

Another good source of tips can be found on Fine Scale Modeler’s website, at

Over on Cybermodeler you’ll find:

For our German-reading friends: and

Matt Swan's website provides another source of excellent "Tools & Tips."

Need some airbrushing guidance? Have a look at Don Wheeler's site.

Paul Budzik's page is just brimming with usefuly tips:

Weathering aircraft? Here's a good article from FineScale:

Author Mike Ashey makes his books available online:



Here’s a paint and colour reference that is pretty definitive: